11.29.09
What’s Fresh? Don’t Ask
What’s fresh? It’s all fresh. What am I talking about? Sushi, of course. Asking a sushi chef what’s fresh or “just in” is an insult. They’ll almost always come back with, “It’s all fresh” and look at you like you’re some kind of jag-off. How would you feel if I was a guest at your house and asked you if your dishes were clean? Exactly. Instead, use your eyes and nose. They’ll tell you what the deal is far more accurately than the guy behind the counter wielding the knife.
I’ve cooked in many restaurants in a past life and have seen my fair share of bad seafood. Just looking at it will tell you if it’s past its prime. Since most fish in a sushi restaurant has been cleaned and the fillet remains, it’s not as easy to spot the old from the new, however your eyes won’t deceive you if you remember this rule: Fresh fish looks firm, moist and brightly colored. No matter what.
Your nose will also give you a clue, and it doesn’t take a heightened sense of smell. Just walking through the front door of any restaurant (or near the fish counter) will give you the hint. Why? Because fresh fish doesn’t smell “fishy.” Period. It contains an odorless chemical known as trimethylamine oxide. Once the fish is killed and its tissues are exposed to air, bacteria in the body break down this chemical into two new substances that are derivatives of ammonia. The more the fish tissue breaks down, the more it will smell. If handled appropriately, the freshest fish will have almost no smell. One bad bite, however, can ruin the entire experience and completely turn you off seafood (ask anyone whose ever spent six hours over a porcelain bowl after consuming a spoiled spicy tuna roll).
by Jason Gardner











